FRIDAY 3 JULY - SUNDAY 5 JULY 2009
We motored the 37 miles to Capo Frailis, just south of Arbatax and anchored in the bay, which is now a holiday resort.
This part of the Sardinian coastline is spectacular, and the Golfo di Orosei especially so and forms part of the Parco Nazionale del Gennargenti. According to the chart all small craft are supposed to keep 2 kilometers off shore, but as we were the only ones obeying the rules, we decided to creep in nearer to see the wonderful cliffs. We saw either porpoise, dolphins or a whale but they did not come near enough for us to see clearly enough to identify them.
We anchored near the Grotto del Bue Marino and took the dinghy into the cave, joining a tour inside. The caves extend for 17 kilometers, but only 1 kilometer is accessible to tourists. They were magnificent with some amazing pillars and underground lakes. One of the caves was the last place in Sardinia used by the almost extinct Monk Seal, last seen here in the early 1980s.
As the weather was so settled, we anchored off the magnificent Cala di Luna, which is backed by a lagoon and the beautiful pink oleander.
On Sunday we motored the 25 miles to La Caletta, where we had been told we could moor on the outer pontoon for free for a couple of nights. Two young marineros told us we could only stay 12 hours – as it was 4.30 p.m. that would mean leaving at 4.30 a.m., or we had to go inside and it would cost us 60 euros! It had been about 15 euros three weeks ago! We said we would stay on the outer pontoon, and another couple told us they had been told it was free and they had been here two nights. We saw the Harbour Master in the morning and he said the regulations say boats can only stay 12 hours. He then said we could stay for another night, but would have to leave by 8 a.m., as the night time hours don’t count!
We had run the water maker for 4 hours on Friday, but it still hadn’t come out the overflow pipe, indicating a full tank. The next day we ran it again but it still wasn’t filling. We then discovered water in the bilges and realized the water was coming out the top of the water tank where Roger had drilled holes for the water guage. This was easily fixed with some mastic.
Monday, 6 July 2009
CAGLIARI TO CAPO FERRATO
MONDAY 29 JUNE - THURSDAY 2 JULY 2009
Having finally managed to tear ourselves away from Cagliari, we set off for a very slow cruise up the eastern coast of Sardinia. The weather was very settled and we had very comfortable anchorages. We stayed for two nights in Villasimius, where there is a well stocked shop. Apparently the marina is very expensive, but the anchorage is very sheltered. We swam ashore to the bar at Cala Pira was like a tropical island with white sand and palm trees.
On Thursday, we anchored just south of Capo Ferrato. There are rocks and stones nearer the shore but we anchored in 4 meters in sand. After snorkeling over the rocks we swam ashore where a fisherman had set up a summer camp in his caravan, and he invited us to share his lunch of freshly grilled fish, bread, cheese and a red wine with peaches soaking in it. We then ate the peaches were divine! It was a test for our Italian as he spoke no English!
Having finally managed to tear ourselves away from Cagliari, we set off for a very slow cruise up the eastern coast of Sardinia. The weather was very settled and we had very comfortable anchorages. We stayed for two nights in Villasimius, where there is a well stocked shop. Apparently the marina is very expensive, but the anchorage is very sheltered. We swam ashore to the bar at Cala Pira was like a tropical island with white sand and palm trees.
On Thursday, we anchored just south of Capo Ferrato. There are rocks and stones nearer the shore but we anchored in 4 meters in sand. After snorkeling over the rocks we swam ashore where a fisherman had set up a summer camp in his caravan, and he invited us to share his lunch of freshly grilled fish, bread, cheese and a red wine with peaches soaking in it. We then ate the peaches were divine! It was a test for our Italian as he spoke no English!
Sunday, 28 June 2009
CAGLIARI, SARDINA
FRIDAY 26 JUNE - SATURDAY 27 JUNE 2009
We intended leaving Cagliaria on Saturday but it was the Mistrale was still blowing and the forecast was for a Force 4 for the next 2 days, with gusts of 37 miles an hour, and as we were going to be at anchor, we decided to wait until Monday. The wind had eased by lunch time, but as a friend of ours once said “I’d rather be in here wishing I was out there, than out there wishing I was in here”. By late afternoon there was a strong Force 5-6 so we were definitely pleased we had stayed. It also meant we could go out with everyone for a farewell pizza (which was the best we had ever tasted) and join in with the marina Bar-B-Que on the Saturday.
We intended leaving Cagliaria on Saturday but it was the Mistrale was still blowing and the forecast was for a Force 4 for the next 2 days, with gusts of 37 miles an hour, and as we were going to be at anchor, we decided to wait until Monday. The wind had eased by lunch time, but as a friend of ours once said “I’d rather be in here wishing I was out there, than out there wishing I was in here”. By late afternoon there was a strong Force 5-6 so we were definitely pleased we had stayed. It also meant we could go out with everyone for a farewell pizza (which was the best we had ever tasted) and join in with the marina Bar-B-Que on the Saturday.
Friday, 26 June 2009
NOURO TO CAGLIARI
WEDNESDAY 24 JUNE 2009
After checking out from the hotel we headed for Fonni, which is another village with murals. At 1000 meters it is the highest village in Sardinia. The village seemed to be preparing for a fiesta as one of the main roads out of the village was blocked and green covering was being laid. We’d seen a lot of horses around the town, and we think they were preparing for some kind of horse race. A lot of the men (more than usual) were gathered in various groups in smart clothes and there were a lot of children who’d obviously got the day off school. When we couldn’t find the right road out of the town (again) one of the locals told us to follow him in his car and he showed us to the edge of the town. We cannot get over how friendly and helpful everyone is.
We headed on to the main fast road to Oristano and went to visit the murals in San Sperate before going back to Cagliari.
After checking out from the hotel we headed for Fonni, which is another village with murals. At 1000 meters it is the highest village in Sardinia. The village seemed to be preparing for a fiesta as one of the main roads out of the village was blocked and green covering was being laid. We’d seen a lot of horses around the town, and we think they were preparing for some kind of horse race. A lot of the men (more than usual) were gathered in various groups in smart clothes and there were a lot of children who’d obviously got the day off school. When we couldn’t find the right road out of the town (again) one of the locals told us to follow him in his car and he showed us to the edge of the town. We cannot get over how friendly and helpful everyone is.
We headed on to the main fast road to Oristano and went to visit the murals in San Sperate before going back to Cagliari.
EASTERN COAST OF SARDINIA
TUESDAY 23 JUNE 2009
As we will be sailing up the Eastern Coast of Sardinia, we thought we’d visit Cervo, but managed to get lost in Nuoro, ending up some extremely narrow streets, and then took a wrong turn and found ourselves about 6 miles up a mountain and the only route was back to Nuoro. The lack of signs is even worst in Sardinia than they are in Spain!
Once again, the scenery was fantastic, whether it was in the mountains or by the coast. Cervo is the playground of the rich and famous, but we were slightly disappointed by it. It seemed very artificial with no real heart to it – we’ve certainly seen better and livelier marinas.
Needless to say, we got lost in Olbia on the way back and nearly ended up on a ferry!
We called into Oliena on the way to our hotel, where the women were out doing their shopping. Most of the older women in these mountain villages where black, with a black shawl.
As we will be sailing up the Eastern Coast of Sardinia, we thought we’d visit Cervo, but managed to get lost in Nuoro, ending up some extremely narrow streets, and then took a wrong turn and found ourselves about 6 miles up a mountain and the only route was back to Nuoro. The lack of signs is even worst in Sardinia than they are in Spain!
Once again, the scenery was fantastic, whether it was in the mountains or by the coast. Cervo is the playground of the rich and famous, but we were slightly disappointed by it. It seemed very artificial with no real heart to it – we’ve certainly seen better and livelier marinas.
Needless to say, we got lost in Olbia on the way back and nearly ended up on a ferry!
We called into Oliena on the way to our hotel, where the women were out doing their shopping. Most of the older women in these mountain villages where black, with a black shawl.
MOUNTAINS OF SARDINIA
MONDAY 22 JUNE 2009
Sardinia touches all the senses. The aromatic smells from the wild flowers, the sounds of the bells on the sheep cows and the superb views. Beautiful pink, red and white Oleander are everywhere. The mountains are so breathtaking it makes driving dangerous as it was difficult to keep my eyes on the road and not on the view. Some of the hairpin bends were hair-raising! After a visit to Dorgali, we drove to Monte Albo north of Nuoro, passing through the mountain towns of Lula, Sant’Anna, Lode and Bitti. Apparently, Bitti’s local dialect is said to be the closest thing to Latin! At one point we caught a glimpse of Isola Tavolara and the Mediterranean.
As all roads seem to point to Nuoro, we visited the town, but got stuck in a café for over an hour as it was pouring with rain.
Sardinia touches all the senses. The aromatic smells from the wild flowers, the sounds of the bells on the sheep cows and the superb views. Beautiful pink, red and white Oleander are everywhere. The mountains are so breathtaking it makes driving dangerous as it was difficult to keep my eyes on the road and not on the view. Some of the hairpin bends were hair-raising! After a visit to Dorgali, we drove to Monte Albo north of Nuoro, passing through the mountain towns of Lula, Sant’Anna, Lode and Bitti. Apparently, Bitti’s local dialect is said to be the closest thing to Latin! At one point we caught a glimpse of Isola Tavolara and the Mediterranean.
As all roads seem to point to Nuoro, we visited the town, but got stuck in a café for over an hour as it was pouring with rain.
OLIENA & ORGOSOLO, CENTRAL SARDINIA
SUNDAY 21 JUNE 2009
Oliena is a mountain village where many of the houses seem to be falling into ruin, but others are well cared for. The older women wear black or dark clothes, with a black shawl. Some of the walls are decordated with murals, but the main centre for wall paintings is Orgosolo.
Murals first began to appear on the walls of Orgosolo in the 1960s and the practice has since spread to other towns and villages in Sardinia. The themes are usually political, but often deal with issues such as emigration and the tough pastoral way of life. The surrounding countryside was bandit country, in particular Orgosolo, and during the 1960s Orgosolo was the subject of a film by Vittorio De Seta ‘Bandits at Orgosolo’. Knowing this, it was rather disconcerting to notice that most of the signs on entering villages had bullet holes in them!
Oliena is a mountain village where many of the houses seem to be falling into ruin, but others are well cared for. The older women wear black or dark clothes, with a black shawl. Some of the walls are decordated with murals, but the main centre for wall paintings is Orgosolo.
Murals first began to appear on the walls of Orgosolo in the 1960s and the practice has since spread to other towns and villages in Sardinia. The themes are usually political, but often deal with issues such as emigration and the tough pastoral way of life. The surrounding countryside was bandit country, in particular Orgosolo, and during the 1960s Orgosolo was the subject of a film by Vittorio De Seta ‘Bandits at Orgosolo’. Knowing this, it was rather disconcerting to notice that most of the signs on entering villages had bullet holes in them!
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